How Do I Fix a Leaky Faucet?

A faucet drips because an internal seal has worn, not because the faucet is beyond saving. Every faucet, from the cheapest builder-grade fixture to a designer kitchen piece, relies on washers, O-rings, or cartridges to stop the flow. Over years of use, those small parts wear, harden, or collect mineral deposits, and the drip begins: one drop per second from a hot or cold side. Depending on temperature and the utility, that seemingly tiny drip can waste thousands of gallons over a year and add real money to the bill, plus the annoyance of the sound at night.

The good news is that the repair is usually small, cheap, and within the reach of a patient homeowner. The fix is the same shape on every style: shut off the water, remove the handle, take out the worn part, replace it, and reassemble. The only real variable is what kind of faucet you have, which determines which part you buy.

Faucets come in four main designs, and the worn part differs by type. Compression faucets, the older two-handle style with separate hot and cold knobs, drip when a rubber washer at the end of the valve stem wears, the classic washer replacement. Ball-style faucets, common in kitchens with a single handle, use springs and rubber seats inside the body. Cartridge faucets, the most common modern design in single and double handle versions, have a cartridge that can be replaced as a unit when it wears. Ceramic disc faucets rarely drip internally but can leak around the base when the O-rings at the top of the cartridge wear.

You do not need to memorize this; you need the name and model off the side or underside of the faucet body, or a photo of the handle to match at the hardware store. The manufacturer's name is usually stamped under the base. A new washer kit, O-ring assortment, or cartridge costs only a few dollars, and the store clerk can match the part to a photo in minutes.

Shut off the water supply valves under the sink first; they are the small handles on the supply lines, and both hot and cold go off for a two-handle faucet. Protect the drain with a rag, place a small bucket underneath in case of drips, and find the handle release: many have a small screw under a decorative cap or behind the handle, some have an Allen screw set into the side. Once the handle is off, you will see the cartridge or the valve stem assembly, take it out, install the new washer, O-rings, or cartridge in the same positions, and reassemble in reverse.

Turn the water back on slowly at the valves, then run the faucet and watch for drips and for leaks around the handle or base. If it still drips with a fresh washer, the seat inside the valve body may be rough and need a seat dressing tool, or the faucet may be simpler to replace than repair. If water seeps around the base while running, the O-rings near the spout are worn, usually a cheaper and easier fix than a cartridge swap.

If the faucet is old, drips at multiple points, or the finish is worn out, replacement often wins. A basic faucet costs less than a plumber's service call, and the swap is a straightforward job for a handyperson: shut off the water, disconnect the supply lines, unthread the mounting nuts under the sink, remove the old unit, and install the new one with plumber's putty or the included gasket per the instructions. Watch for older shutoff valves that may drip once disturbed; if those weep after the swap, replacing the supply lines and valves is the natural next step.

If you are not comfortable with the handle and cartridge work, a plumber can rebuild or replace a dripping faucet in under an hour, and the peace of mind is often worth the small visit. Whichever path you choose, fixing the drip this month instead of next year is the point; every drip ignored is the same job, a little wetter, a little more mineral clogged, a little more expensive.